Days 15-17
Can you find 13 worms?
We’re now 535 miles into the trip, sitting in Diamond Bluff, Wisconsin waiting out severe thunderstorms. Much of the last three days have been spent in the rain. We, and everything we own, are soaked!
Despite the rain, the last several days have been our favorite of the trip so far. We’ve been passing through a stretch of urban paddling, meeting lots of new friends and making time to explore off river.
On Friday, we passed through the Coon Rapids Dam and Visitor Center. The dam was built in 1913 and is now the anchor for a well-developed recreational area. We met several friendly fishermen and cyclists as we portaged. So far, no one that we’ve met has been all that surprised to hear we’re headed to the Gulf. We aren’t sure if that will change or not as we head further South.
We ended the day at Island of Peace Regional Park, a spot with two rope swings and a hammock with a sign indicating it was intended for all to enjoy. We were visited by two fishermen taking shelter from the ever-present storms as well as a small dog that swam across the channel to say hello, leading us to nickname this campsite ‘Visitor Island.’
It continued raining throughout the night and into the morning. Though we’re willing to paddle in rain, we draw the line at active thunder and lightning. We waited until there were no lightning strikes within 20 miles for 30 minutes before setting off, cold, wet, and getting wetter.
As we paddled into the Minneapolis city proper, the rain began to slow. I loved paddling through the city- so much to look at! So many people to talk to! And so, so much trash. We picked up what we could, missing plenty, and filled a bag by the end of the day.
Another neat part of city paddling is the number and variety of bridges. Throughout the trip, Leah is photographing every bridge we see. At one point in Minneapolis, there were 5 bridges in one picture! A new record.
Our favorite ‘bridge’ was a rainbow that appeared at the end of one of the many showers.
In Minneapolis, we made our final portage with wheels. It was a doozy- a mile and a half long walk with fully loaded boats through a bustling park. We broke the walk into sections, stopping at a museum and farmer’s market along the way.
Back on the water, we headed to our first lock. A lock is a like an elevator for boats. You begin by requesting passage from the lock master and awaiting instructions to enter the chamber. Once inside, the doors lock, and water is drained away. I didn’t know what to expect, but the lowering sensation is smooth and gradual. It’s almost imperceptible, barring the visual cue of being suddenly 35 feet below the chamber’s edge!
Our first lock went particularly smoothly. River Angel Mark Wagar happened to be paddling near the lock that day. He answered questions, gave advice, and escorted us to the chamber. Thanks, Mark!
After the lock, the first few miles of riverbank were filled with families enjoying their Saturday afternoon. Dogs and children played in the water, while adults crowded around camp fires and fishing poles.
Eventually, the river grew more industrial. Factories and barges lined the banks. The air smelled foul. We didn’t see any wildlife or trees for several miles. We pushed past that section to camp on Pigs Eye Island. The next morning was more of the same.
However, the day markedly improved when we began catching up to other source to sea paddlers. We met Bruce and Michelle Labes, who generously treated us to hot tea and a dry place to sit.
Later that same day we met Lyle Scott along with Willow Bill and his paddle partner Jill. Willow is escorting a 22 foot dug out canoe back to fellow Mississippian John Ruskey, River Gator and Carver Extraordinaire. He sent us, along with Lyle, out for a spin.
The dug-out is the Cadillac of watercraft- luxurious, solid, yet turns with a feather touch. We spun in circles for a bit learning how to paddle as a team, but eventually found our stride and coasted back to shore. I have never been in a craft like that before and likely won’t again. We will be riding the high of Willow’s generosity and exuberance for the rest of the trip!
Our day ended at mile marker 800.5, where we took shelter on the living room floor of Angels Jim, Kent, and Patricia’s riverside home. We were thrilled to be out of the thunder and rain.
In the morning, Jim generously took us to town for laundry, groceries, and Menards. We’ve lost (and broken) many things so far on this trip. Some of which we had backups or could fix, some of which needed to be fully replaced. Re-armed with supplies, we’re setting off now ready to take on Day 18.
(Misc Trip Things)1
Together, we’re a full tanned hand
Thank you to everyone who’s ever hung a rope swing on a river bank
White Willow are my new favorite trees.
wild places and woodland creatures live on even when city is all I can see
Frolics and detours for the win. #FBLG forever 💜
Emergent adulthood is almost over and I’m so abundantly grateful for where I’m landing. Life cannot possibly be better than this.
‘nough said
Nobody talks about the leaches. There are leaches on this trip. They will fill your boat, cling to your clothes, and move in an unsettlingly undulating fashion. They are small emaciated creatures in these parts and can be plucked off or berated into detaching quite easily.
Amazing! Keep on paddling, ladies! 🙏🙏🙏💕💕💕💕