Day 25-30

Where the Wild Things Are

At this point in the trip, we've talked to a few newspaper reporters about the experience. They've each asked what the most surprising aspect of the trip is, what we're learning along the way, and what we hope sticks with us when the trip is over. If you've seen and enjoyed any of that coverage, please consider donating to support our fundraising efforts for childhood hunger relief efforts.

Before the trip began, we talked about the lessons we expected from the experience. Leah hoped to grow more comfortable accepting help from others, and I hoped to lengthen the time span between my reaction and response (what I've been calling bomb-proofing!). Now that I no longer flinch at every jumping fish, I've been thinking more about the auxiliary, or unintentional, lessons of the trip.

Colorful flora along the river’s edge

We've entered a stretch of river where it's much more difficult to find campsites each night. The water is high for this time of year, and the sandbars we can see on the satellite map alternate between overgrowth and flooding. We may plan to stop at 5 and not find a dry, clear spot until 7:30. One section of the satellite map was taken in the winter-- making it useless to us for finding a spot! Instead, we've begun to rely on observations of plant life to show the way. Both native and invasive species have proved useful guides.

Purple loosestrife is one such plant. It was accidentally introduced to the region in early 1800s, by frontier families who carried to relieve dysentery. It spread further through a 1940s planting program intended to provide pollen for honey bees. It's helpful for distinguishing patches of broadleaf arrow-head, a leafy aquatic plant, from solid ground, because loosestrife grows right at the island's edge. If you can push through the arrowhead to the loosestrife, you'll probably find a solid place to pitch a tent!

However, arrowhead has its uses. Because the patches create a barrier before an island's edge, they dissipate wave energy and protect shores from erosion. The plant also produces an edible tuber, similar to potato in taste and texture. Unfortunately the tubers won't be ready to harvest until October, well after we've passed through this area.

This island featured arrowhead AND sandbar willow. No camping here!

Sandbar willow, also called Coyote Willow, is another sign of a bad campsite. The leafy bushes are densely packed, creating an ideal environment for mosquitoes to spawn. The willow is a pioneer tree, growing in thickets on recently flooded sandbars. It's very frustrating to see a sandbar on the satellite map and arrive to an impenetrably thick stand of willow!

Though our favorite camp sites are wide, empty sandbars, spotting bur-cucumber beneath the riverbank's tree line is the next best thing at the end of a long day. The native vine spreads quickly across low, recently disturbed sand, signaling a level spot and soft ground cover for our tents.

Day 31’s campsite was a good one. Worth the extra four miles of paddling to find it!

As we paddle on, we'll continue refining our ability to read the world around us. I suspect we can learn more from the plants than simply where to camp. Abundance, reciprocity, and interdependence weave throughout our experiences each day and are reflected in the river’s ecosystem. Trip Log Below:

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Day 25

We visited the Effigy Mounds National Monument. Having forgotten my phone at the final look out, we hiked to the top twice.

During our double-hike, we ran into a set of park rangers who were resetting bat acoustic monitoring equipment. They kindly answered our questions about the park and chatted with us about our trip before we continued up. The view at the top, looking at the stretch we’d just paddled, was impressive.

Day 26

During our water refill stop for the week, a passerby stopped to chat. She was a pastor’s wife traveling with her children. She had a friend do the river a few years ago and wished us luck in our journey. Talking to her made me miss church folks even more! All my love to my Trinity, Sheil, Sacred Heart, and McCarley family 🤍

We have a knack for hitting museums after hours. We usually peer longingly through the windows and talk about our reunion trip of 2055, in which we’ll drive the river and visit all the museums we missed on this version of the journey! This was a great map outside of the Mississippi River museum in Dubuque, showing all the interpretive centers along the river.

One of the sites we saw in Dubuque was a shot tower, used for manufacturing lead ballast balls. We also had dinner at a restaurant in town, walked around the historic district, and met fellow paddler Kim Friedrich. A delightful evening!

Day 27

Eerie or cool? Either way, this make shift Statue of Liberty is a don’t miss attraction along the great river road.

This one’s just plain eerie. We were struggling to find a campsite, having guessed incorrectly at 3 prior islands. The sun was setting and we were desperate. As we pulled up at a promising looking sandbar, we noticed a recently deceased coyote under a tree. It was too close to dark to make it to the next island, so we decided to camp as far from the body as we could. The beach was covered in tracks and whimpers and howls kept us awake most of the night.

Day 28

Despite the uneasy sleep, Leah decided to make the best of dead-coyote island by continuing her Dorodango project the next morning. She will form the mud into a polished ball through repetitive handling.

This is just a ferry, but later in the day we had a neat interaction with a barge at Lock 13. We’d had lunch at a campground near Clinton, Iowa, the widest part of the river, and were headed to the nearby lock. When we radioed to ask how long the wait was, we learned we were the same amount of time from the lock as a barge. The captain kindly slowed his boat to allow us to lock through first, saving us between 1-2 hours of time waiting around in the sun. We hauled it to the lock, having promised we were only 15 minutes away, getting closer to the dam than we intended. When we pulled into the lock chamber, the lock masters joked that they’d almost put the rescue boat in after us!

We ended the day with a swim and a campfire on what we dubbed “Shell Island.”

Day 29

Many thanks to Tony, a river angel who hosted us for lunch and showers. Tony biked the river a few years ago to raise money for ALS and Leukemia research. He shared the prayer that inspired him each morning of his trip:

Tony’s Daily Prayer:

I will not take that bitter thrust which rent my heart today, As from an earthly soul, though it was meant that way.

But I will look beyond the tool because my life is planned.

I take the cup my Father gives. I take it from His hand.

He knows and even thus allows these little things that irk.

I trust His wisdom and His love. Let patience have its work.

Though human means have brought the sting, I firmly take this stand.

My loving Father holds the cup. I take it from His hand.

Now those who watch may wonder why these things do not disturb.

I look right past the instrument and see my Lord superb.

The trials which would lay me low must pass through His command.

He holds the outstretched cup to me. I take it from His hand.

One of the hardest parts of the trip for me has been the separation from my faith community. I miss the weekly rhythms and relationships of home. But this trip is a once in a life time experience (at least by this mode of transit. #houseboat2065), and I wouldn’t want to spend this gap between bar and work any other way. Even in the loneliness, I’ve been so blessed to meet and pray with fellow paddlers, folks along the river, and family and friends through the phone. We were not meant to do this life alone, and I’m so grateful for the ways in which the Spirit moves through each of you. One month down, one to go!

River angels Mike and Tony met us later that day! They’d both kayaked the river during past paddle seasons and had a wealth of knowledge and advice. Mike went on to cook TWO phenomenal meals and host us in his home. We are deeply grateful for the kindness of these two men!

Day 30

We set off the next morning feeling revived by the hospitality and generosity of these River Angel community.

Leah decided to start a second, larger mud ball.

The river was flying this day. We got to camp around 4:30 and decided to play around in the water, flipping boats and learning to stand. This is an empty boat on still water— more practice needed before we try full boat and choppy waters!

We ended the day with a campfire to celebrate our official half-way-day.